It has been a few years since I walked through the doors of The George Inn in Oakham. In fact, the last time was back when it was named The Whipper Inn, but after a rebrand earlier this year, I can tell that more than the name has changed. As you enter from the Market Place, where there was once a table with a couple of bar stools, there is now a big sink-into-it armchair. Plush sofas and a glowing fire greet us as we walk through into the parlour, which is already busy on a weekday lunchtime.

New owner Ryck Turner is responsible for the transformation after buying the old Whipper Inn in 2022 with a plan to complete an entire refurbishment of the inn and adjacent buildings He has focused the kitchen on sourcing the finest ingredients, and certainly everything we have tastes fresh and flavoursome. Outside there is smart new signage and a fresh lick of paint, and inside is an inviting sanctuary. Dark walls, rich tones and sumptuous furnishings create a smart yet relaxing and homely atmosphere. The dining room is more formal but still retains a lot of the old charm, with rustic dressers and lamp-lit alcoves. 

A Warm Welcome & Our Lunch

We are warmly greeted by our waiter, Lamin, who takes us to our table. He is one of the friendliest waiters I think I’ve ever met, instantly making us feel welcome, with a big smile and a touch of humour. He takes us through into the refurbished dining room, where we have a seat overlooking the courtyard. My husband, James, and I, both comment on how it would be the perfect spot for a drink or lunch on a warm, sunny day. Today is decidedly chillier, so after ordering our drinks (one glass of beautifully smooth Malbec, and a crisp Sauvignon Blanc), I choose the soup of the day to start, and James goes for the wild mushroom pithivier. 

When it comes to menus, I often look at desserts first (I am definitely a puddings person), to see whether I have a starter, but all the starters here sound very tempting: home-smoked duck breast, chicken liver parfait, lobster tortellini, and Coquilles Saint-Jaques, which I nearly opt for. But today I am after something wholesome and warming, so the vegetable soup is my ultimate choice. Thick and creamy, and served with a warm roll, it would make the perfect simple lunch on its own. 

The pithier, served with truffle oil, is delicate with creamy mushrooms and a light, crisp pastry. Both starters are delicious and delivered with a smile from Lamin, who has worked at the hotel for over a decade and witnessed many changes over the years. He seems excited about the recent developments, which have certainly brought this historic inn back to life.

For our main course, I have the pan-fried sea bass. It is served stacked with soft potatoes and artichokes, which are slightly caramelised. The fish is beautifully seasoned and presented, with a crisp skin, and it works well with the slight earthiness from the artichokes, and, for balance, a fresh tomato and red onion salsa. James, meanwhile, has the Atlantic lobster, which is light and succulent and comes with chips, which are crisp and really well seasoned. Both are excellent mains.

We treat ourselves to dessert. James’ chocolate and orange torte is not overly rich but has a soft, velvety texture, and a lovely marriage of sweet and citrus. I go for the lemon and blackberry crème brulée, which is served with a wonderful, delicately flavoured lavender shortbread.

It proves to be quite a decadent mid-week lunch, but it is thoroughly enjoyable and full of flavour. I look forward to returning for an evening meal to try a few more of the dishes. As we leave, we walk back through the parlour and pass the lounge and bar. While I definitely want to come back for a meal, I might be back for a drink by the fire even sooner!

The George Inn, Market Place, Oakham LE15 6DT | 01572 756971
www.thegeorgeinnoakham.co.uk |  @thegeorgeinnoakham